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Fabrics
Great technological advances have been made in both the improvement of natural fibers and the creation and development of synthetic fibers. Special finishes impart body, permanent press qualities, water repellency, and other qualities to fabrics. Fibers are blended to obtain fabrics with the best qualities of both natural and synthetic materials. But there is much you should know about the peculiarities of various fabrics and constructions.
- Many beautiful fibers may lack durability and should be purchased only with this understanding. These include cashmere, camel's hair, and mohair. Angora, another luxury fiber, can shrink excessively even with the most careful care in cleaning.
- Lightweight and loosely woven wools, gauzes, and loosely knit sweaters have a tendency to snag easily or become distorted in wear and cleaning.
- Suede and smooth leathers have a high incidence of color difficulties. Genuine suede and leather items require special processing to preserve their finish, feel, and color. These garments should only be handled by cleaners equipped for this specialized job.
- Imitation suede and leather may become stiff or peel in drycleaning. These items are often accepted for cleaning only at owners risk.
- Suede-like materials and other materials with a flocked finish may develop bare spots in wear and cleaning. The life expectancy for these garments is generally rather short.
- Many tailored garments contain interfacings in the collar and lapel that are fused rather than stitched to the shell fabric. In some cases, blisters and wrinkles develop when these items are drycleaned. This is the fault of the manufacturer.
- Some poorly constructed bonded fabrics may separate from the face fabric or lining, or there may be shrinkage, puckering, stiffening, or adhesive staining.
- Acrylic knits are inclined to stretch when wet or when exposed to steam in finishing after drycleaning.
- Some dyes and pigment prints may fade in drycleaning solvents. Others are water soluble and may fade when exposed to water in spot removal.
Color
It is impossible to determine simply by looking at the fabric whether the color will withstand exposure to sunlight, water, drycleaning solvent, or various spot removal agents or chemicals. Reading labels and tags may give you some information. Some blue jeans and other denim items are labeled "guaranteed to fade," for or example.
Colors are applied either as dyes, which are absorbed into the fibers, or as pigments, which adhere to the fabric surface. Usually both are reasonably colorfast. Some colors however, are totally unserviceable, not fast in either water or drycleaning solvent. And some colors "crock," or rub off on the skin or other fabrics.
Some dyes are called 'fugitive" dyes, because they will run, rub off, or bleed onto other fabrics. Pigment prints and metallic prints are held to the fabric with an adhesive, and may wear off over time, from wear as well as cleaning.
Some dyes fade on exposure to strong light, especially sunlight, but sometimes strong artificial light as well. Some dyes change color on exposure to combustion gases present in the air, This is called "fume fading," and is especially common in acetate fabrics,
Decorative Trims
In addition to fabric and color, you must also be concerned with how buttons, beads, sequins, and other decorations and fasteners will hold up to drycleaning.
Most troublesome in this respect are buttons and beads made of polystyrene, which softens or melts on exposure to drycleaning solvent.
Beads and sequins may be covered with a thin coating of color, which may come off during wear or cleaning. Beads or sequins may be merely glued on and come off during wear or in cleaning. Trim that is sown on with a single continuous thread may all come off if the thread is broken. Belts or other items that contain cardboard stiffeners or glues will require special attention.
According Federal Trade Commission care label rule, trims must be able to withstand the recommended care process, so if you do have a problem, you should return the article to the retailer.
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